Day 6: Hiking the Fisherman’s Trail
From Aljezur to Arrifana
Our sixth day on the Fisherman’s Trail commenced with the lingering charm of the previous night. Celebrating our engagement in a cozy restaurant overlooking an ancient castle atop a riverside hill set the perfect tone. Anticipating rain at lunchtime, we woke up at 6:30 AM the next day to prep for the hike. Despite initial forecasts, the weather shifted, leaving us with only clouds. A delightful breakfast by the pool, featuring strong coffee and multiple fruit refills, energized us for the day. Our suitcases were dropped at the reception, and we embarked on the trail.
Aljezur’s Charms, Steep Hills and Cattle Serenades
Our hike began by retracing our steps from the previous day through the heart of Aljezur’s old city. We passed by the historic museum and the charming small church. Continuing our descent along a dusty road leaving the city behind, we suddenly realized that we were just at the bottom of the very hill on which the grand Aljezur Castle proudly stood. And, as we descended further, we passed by a peculiar place called the “Fountain of the Lies” (Fonte das Mentiras), just beneath the castle. The pathway granted us with glimpses of Aljezur and the castle behind, coupled with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. Climbing steep hills with Aljezur as our backdrop, we witnessed a small village consisting of a few red houses. The ascent, though challenging, opened up to expansive vistas of the castle, lush hills, and a farm below where cows’ synchronized bell symphony echoed. Eventually, we conquered the summit, turning onto a dusty road.
The river of Aljezur mindering in the valley
Riverside Vistas, Coastal Tranquility and Seaside Serenity
Walking along an asphalt road, following the river of Aljezur to our right, offered a picturesque view of a distant village. The road was quiet, with only a few passing cars. This stretch provided panoramic views of the river zigzagging towards the ocean, a delightful prelude to the upcoming coastal section of the hike. After an extended stretch on asphalt, the path brought us to a charming village with captivating colorful houses. Traditional houses painted in vibrant colors coexisted harmoniously with modern apartment buildings. Descending along a pathway that hugged the river’s edge, we found ourselves on familiar sandy terrain, drawing us closer to our day’s first destination—the convergence of the River Aljezur with the Atlantic Ocean. The excitement heightened as the rhythmic sound of waves grew louder.
As we reached a vantage point, a panoramic view unfolded before us. The wide beach stretched widely, and the river seamlessly merged with the ocean. A few beachgoers dotted the shoreline, and there were silhouettes of surfers riding the waves. The place was accessible by cars, and attracted fellow tourists and locals because of the captivating view. Adjacent to a small cozy restaurant, a wooden-planked path beckoned us to change direction and embark on a new phase of our hike. Heading up a wide sandy road, our surroundings transformed into a breathtaking landscape of cliffs and ocean views. The allure of this scenic route intensified as we spotted fishermen perched on the rocks, casting fishing rods into the azure waters below.
Praia de Monte Clerigo- the surfer’s paradise
Surfer’s Paradise and Coastal Heights
Our hiking along the sandy pathway led us to yet another coastal village nestled by the sea. The moment our eyes caught sight of it, we felt a vibrant energy infused with the salty breeze. It quickly became apparent that we had stumbled upon a surfer’s haven—a place pulsating with the rhythm of waves and the enthusiasm of those seeking the perfect ride. As we strolled closer and closer to the village, more and more surfers started appeared from left and right. Numerous surf schools and equipment rentals lined the path, showcasing the popularity of this coastal village. There were surfers of all skill levels, with boards in hand, all heading to catch waves. Diverging from the main road, we walked past charming houses, ascending to a vantage point atop a hill. The decision to walk away from the beach momentarily led us to a dusty, wide road heading uphill. We walked on a road along cars and vans, loaded with surfboards.
Reaching the road’s end, an unexpected encounter awaited us—a police car stationed with a few officer peering through binoculars towards the ocean. The mysterious gaze hinted at a story unfolding in the waters, where we could see a few boats and ships. Passing by, we descended onto the sandy shores, closer to the breathtaking ocean and majestic cliffs, where we felt safe and familiar with the ground beneath our feet.
Seaside Contemplation
Our hike unfolded into a tranquil downtime as we meandered along the sand dunes. To our surprise, a solitary rock emerged in the dunes, providing an inviting place for break amidst the sandy expanse. Seated on the rock, we found ourselves in a natural haven. Fishermen, silhouetted against the backdrop of the ocean and coastline, could be seen from our spot. On the distant horizon, a boat floated. With the ocean’s soundtrack, we embraced a 10-minute break. Energized and refreshed, we resumed our journey along the sandy trail. Our exploration led us to a panoramic point where a vast bay unfolded, revealing a pristine beach below named Praia da Pipa. The desire to descend to the sandy shores was palpable, but the steepness of the pathway posed a challenge. We saw two young people scaling the incline with hands, which made us opt for a more leisurely alternative. Instead of venturing down to Praia da Pipa, we set our sights on a scenic lunch spot at Ponta da Atalaia, situated at the end of the beach, a mere 20 minutes walk. This decision promised not only a satisfying meal but also an opportunity to bask in the breathtaking views that lay ahead.
Praia de Monte Clerigo- the surfer’s village and paradise
Changing Terrains
Clifftop Marvels and Coastal Mysteries
The trail guided us along the very edge of majestic cliffs, offering dizzying views of the Atlantic ocean. At times, we found ourselves weaving further from the edge cliffs, passing behind sand dunes and crossing quaint wooden bridges that bridged gaps between the cliffs and over the ocean. As we walked along, we noticed a counterflow of fellow hikers moving in the opposite direction. These could have been locals or fellow hikers coming from the nearby village of Vale da Telha. We finally reached Ponta da Atalia, a vantage point marked by the remains of a time-forgotten building. Passing by, we had a purpose to find a spot for a well-deserved lunch break amidst the coastal beauty. We wandered around to find the perfect lunch spot, but there was not even a signel stone to sit down and rewind. However, we were tempted by a very steep path going all the way down, bringing us closer to the ocean. We had to walk carefully on the steep dusty path, but eventually we made it down on the beach, purely made of black stones. With no benches in sight, we settled on a scattering of low stones. The partly sunny, partly cloudy sky above motivated us to find solace from the sun’s rays. A fisherman and his family and two dogs, made us a company while we ate our lunch. The fisherman was moving gracefully from rock to rock, his bucket revealing a successful catch.
Heading Back to the Trail and Uphill Challenges
After a solid recharge, we strapped on our backpacks, ready to conquer the next chapter of our trail. The mission? Head back up that steep hill we just descended. Challenge accepted. It was like a stairway to hiker’s heaven. Victorious and slightly out of breath, we found our way back to the trail, where the real adventure continued. Sandy roads hugged the cliff’s edge, unveiling picturesque beaches. The path got hilly, throwing ups and downs at us like a nature-themed rollercoaster. As we trekked on, a green forest unfolded before our eyes. From the dry, bushy landscape emerged small palms, injecting a tropical vibe. The scenery kept shifting from palms to bushes, and then the grand entrance of majestic pine trees. Our sandy pathway wove seamlessly between the trees and bushes, that kept us captivated for the next 2-3 kilometers. Eventually, our journey led us to the road that pointed us in the direction of Arrifana village. The anticipation bubbled up as we were on the final stage of the day’s adventure.
Sunset by the Pool
Arriving in Arrifana, we found out that our hotel was very cozy with its distinct oriental style. A Brazilian receptionist warmly welcomed us, mentioning a minor power shortage—a familiar occurrence in Aljezur. With the day coming to an end, we seized the opportunity for a relaxing sunset by the hotel pool. Alone in the tranquil setting, we soaked in the last sun. We were happy with the day’s adventures and felt accomplished again, so we concluded the evening with a cozy dinner on the hotel’s balcony.
As we prepared for the last three days of the trail, we addressed my hiking buddy’s developing blisters with determination. The route for the upcoming days was scrutinized, and we eagerly looked forward to the adventures awaiting us on the remaining stretch of the Fisherman’s Trail. Stay tuned for the next chapter in our journey!
Start
Aljezur
End
Arrifana
Duration
5.5 hours
Length
17 km
Difficulty
Intermediate
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