Day 2: Hiking the Fisherman’s Trail
From Vila Nova de Milfontes to Almograve
Our second day on the Fisherman’s Trail started with a mix of anticipation and a bit of restless sleep. Adjusting to new surroundings can be a challenge, but the promise of another exciting day on this scenic coastal hike kept our spirits high. As we looked out the window, we could sense that today would be another chapter in our unforgettable adventure along Portugal’s stunning coastline. Day 2 promised to be as exhilarating as the first, if not more so, as we delved deeper into the untamed beauty of the Fisherman’s Trail.
Packing for the Adventure
Before we could set out on our hike, we had to tackle the task of packing. We had brought along a bit too much luggage, and now the challenge was to fit everything into our suitcases, leaving only the essentials in our backpacks. We ended up bringing with us extra shoes, shirts, jackets, electronics, and passports but of course prioritizing the space for food and water – crucial for our day’s journey. Our backpacks may have been heavy, but we were determined to conquer the trail.
Check out the map here!
Morning Fuel
With our packing woes behind us, we headed out to deliver our suitcases at the hotel reception and indulge in a leisurely breakfast. This time, we opted for a more relaxed atmosphere, enjoying our meal in the same restaurant where we had a delightful dinner with a view the day before. Coffee, water, fruits, and a hearty plate of eggs fueled us for the adventure ahead. Our lesson from the previous day’s sunburn was taken to heart, and we applied sunscreen liberally.
The Journey Begins
Our hike commenced with a stroll through the charming city, where we encountered a bustling main street adorned with cafes, restaurants, shops, and supermarkets. The locals seemed to emanate happiness, especially around the bakeries and quaint cafes.
Praia do Brejo Largo,
Where Sand meets ocean
Through the City
As we continued, we soon found ourselves approaching closer to the iconic Vila Nova de Milfontes bridge. Walking along a wooden-planked pathway after the bridge, we descended to the beach, where we found more boats and fishermen. The river and the ocean met seamlessly, blurring the line between saltwater and freshwater. Along the way to the bridge, we met a kind woman feeding a troop of around 20 or motr cats. She offered us a chance to board a boat for the Fisherman’s Trail, which we hadn’t initially planned for. Though we were tempted to skip few kilometers, we chose to continue our journey on foot, determined to experience the trail in its entirety.
Riverside to Coastal Views
Our path led us up a hill from the coastline toward the city, following the well-marked green and turquoise markings of the trail from our hotel. Passing initally through the city’s main street, with its vibrant cafes and shops, as well as Forte de São Clemente, fort with a view towards the ocean and river, we felt the transition from urban to wilderness.
Through the Bridge of Milfontes to Cliffs and the Ocean
As we walked further, we reached a dusty road flanked by dry bushes and trees, accompanied by the distant sound of the road on the other side. Our destination was the bridge, and as we crossed it, we were rewarded with breathtaking views of Vila Nova de Milfontes and the river converging with the ocean. Leaving the road behind, we entered a field through a wooden door, where the sandy path made for a more comfortable walk than the dusty aslphalt roads. Eventually, snippets of the bridge and the city on the other side of the River Mira came into view but dissapeared again as we ventured further.
The Splendor of the Coastline
Descending from a hill, we drew nearer to the river’s coastline. The dusty road gave way to sandy terrain, which, fortunately, was more solid underfoot. Along this stretch, we were treated to a spectacle of cliffs, waves, and soaring seagulls. The road featured occasional steep descents and ascents, but the sand was accommodating. We traversed golden and red sands, passing one picturesque cliff after another. Sometimes the trail hugged the cliff’s edge, while other times it meandered behind sand dunes adorned with bushes.
A Lush Oasis by the Ocean
Continuing on, we encountered a striking contrast: a sandy road enveloped by lush greenery of native portugese oak and pine trees. This marked a significant departure from the arid landscapes we’d encountered earlier. The path, adorned with red sand dunes on the sides and tall pine trees, was set against the backdrop of the azure ocean and the endless blue sky. The symphony of ocean waves serenaded us, enhancing the beauty of this section.
A well fed cat, with a view over the river and fishermen
Into the tunnel of trees
Meeting Fellow Trekkers
As we trekked on this path, which featured gentle inclines and declines, we began to encounter other hikers on the Fisherman’s Trail. With these fellowers, whether couples or friends, young or old, we exchanged nods and smiles as we passed each other.
Into the Tunnel of Trees
Our journey took us into a captivating section where the path meandered under a tunnel of trees and between dense bushes. The trees displayed a spectrum of conditions, from extremely dry to lush and green. Some bushes and trees had low-hanging branches that required us to bend and maneuver carefully. Exiting this passage, we realized that it was entirely concealed by the branches and leaves when viewed from the other side.
Beachside Bliss
Soon, we arrived at a cliff that overlooked a pristine beach with golden sand. We found a steep path leading down to the beach, complete with a ladder for easier access. The beach stretched wide, with lively waves and pleasantly sparse crowds – some beachgoers even dared to bare it all. We strolled nearly to the beach’s end, passing rocks that marked the apparent boundary. To our surprise, just beyond these rocks, the beach continued, with evidence of slightly damp sand, indicating that the water had approached closely.
Lunch by the Ocean
Choosing a spot between the rocks, we settled down for a well-deserved break. We took a refreshing dip in the chilly ocean waters, capturing the moment with our GoPro camera. Lunch consisted of a simple yet satisfying meal, all while relishing the mesmerizing view of waves crashing against the shore.
Rising Tide and a Change of Plans
After about 30 minutes, we noticed the water creeping closer to our position. Concerned that it might cut off our path back behind the rocks, we quickly packed up and moved a few hundred meters away to a safer distance from the encroaching tide. Here, we soaked in a bit more sun before ascending a set of stairs to rejoin the Fisherman’s Trail.
Back on the Trail
Our journey continued along a sandy road that hugged the coastline, offering more stunning cliffside views. However, there was a stretch where the trail led us through dense bushes. Some of these bushes had dry branches, while others displayed vibrant green leaves, providing a mixed experience as we pushed forward with the help of our walking sticks.
The Grand Reveal of Almograve
Our path eventually veered inland, and soon we beheld Almograve perched atop a cliff, with a wide beach below, enclosed by rocks and sandy shores. The village was framed by verdant trees, creating a picturesque scene. As we followed the sandy road, it gradually transitioned into a dusty path, alternating between sunshine and shade.
A Glimpse of Village Life
Passing through a field graced by beautiful white horses, we reached an asphalt road leading us into Almograve. With a sense of relief, we found our hotel, where we could finally rest our weary legs, and most importantly take a shower and wash away the sweat and sand from our bodies.
Sunset and Preparations for Tomorrow
While the hotel may not have lived up to our expectations, the receptionist’s warm welcome and local recommendations aded charm to our stay. She pointed us to a beachside bar, insisting that we should not miss the sunset. The day after we also happened to have the best breakfast on our stay served by a lovely old Portugese grandma with big glasses and biggest smile on her face. Despite our fatigue, we couldn’t resist the allure of the coastline, so we made a quick supermarket run to stock up on dinner and supplies for the next day’s adventure. Excitement filled the air as we anticipated the adventures that awaited us on the Fisherman’s Trail.
Day 2 of our Fisherman’s Trail journey had taken us from riverside cityscapes to breathtaking cliffs, hidden beaches, and lush greenery. Each step had brought us closer to the raw beauty of Portugal’s coastline. With 17 kilometers behind us, we retired to our hotel rooms, eager for the adventures that awaited us on the upcoming days of our hike along the Fisherman’s Trail.
Start
Vila Nova De Milfontes
End
Almograve
Duration
5.5 hours
Length
17 km
Difficulty
Intermediate
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