Day 1: Hiking the Fisherman’s Trail
From Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes
There’s something truly magical about waking up early, the dawn’s first light barely kissing the horizon, knowing that a day of adventure and exploration awaits. Such was the start of our 9-day trekking along the captivating Fisherman’s Trail in Portugal. Our hearts raced with anticipation as we prepared to conquer the first stage of this remarkable trail. Join us as we recount every thrilling detail of our unforgettable first day on this breathtaking and epic coastal trail.
Meeting Our Taxi Driver
Our day kicked off with an early breakfast, although Portuguese punctuality was a bit more relaxed. Nonetheless, we quickly fueled up and headed to fetch our bags. We stayed in Vila de Milfontes for the first two nights due to accomodation unavailability in Porto Covo, the starting point of our adventure. Though, we had booked a taxi to drive us to the trailhead. Our trusty taxi driver, who had an affinity for driving but not walking, shared her stories with us. She had embarked on a pilgrimage to Lisbon, covering over 200 kilometers, only to end up in the hospital after arriving in Lisbon due to exhaustion. Despite this, she seemed content with her life in Portugal, where she often drove for hours on end.
Exploring Porto Covo
Upon arriving in Porto Covo, we found the town tranquil and less crowded in the early morning hours. Our driver kindly dropped us off at the start of the trail, where we were greeted by an unexpected sight: the first trail marker was on a garbage container! This quirky beginning set the tone for our adventure.
Before hitting the trail, we took a slight detour to Porto Covo’s stunning beach. Here, we marveled at the magnificent cliffs and the serene beach below. Although it was empty at the time, we imagined it bustling with visitors later in the day. We also witnessed locals preparing for a market day, adding a touch of authenticity to our experience.
Most of the time the pathway looked like this: endless, sandy and epic
Scenic Pathway and Clifftop Views
As we followed the trail markers, we encountered picturesque sand roads along the cliffs. Occasionally, we passed by campervans parked near the edge, offering them breathtaking ocean views. Along the way, we encountered a family whose chaotic hiking style provided some amusement. They zigzagged and crisscrossed their paths but they never stayed together. That kept us entertained throughout the day and we wondered if we would meet and befriend more trekkers like us along the way. The trail was well-marked, making navigation a breeze. It took us up and down sandy dunes, with one section requiring a bit of hand support, though it wasn’t as daunting as it sounds.
Along the way, we encountered numerous secluded beaches, inviting us to soak up the sun or take a dip in the ocean. One such gem was Praia do Sissal, a narrow beach tucked away in the landscape.
In the distance, we spotted an island with a fortress, as well as a vast, sandy beach with crashing waves – our next destination. To reach it, we trekked along a wide beach for about a kilometer. Around the bend, the land revealed a fortress, Ilha de Pessegueiro, with Praia da Ilha, a beautiful beach where we paused to admire the crashing waves and capture some photos.
Exploring Forte da Ilha
With our curiousity as driver, we entered into Forte da Ilha. The fort was open to the public and offered an ideal spot for a break. We enjoyed panoramic views of Porto Covo, its pristine beaches, and the sandy trails that lay ahead. Relishing the moment, we prepared to continue our journey.
Check out the map here!
Forte de Nossa Senhora da Queimada
Sandy Trails and Surfers
Back on the trail, we traversed sandy roads that meandered close to the cliffs. The sound of the crashing waves accompanied us, creating a soothing backdrop to our hike. A big sign informed us that the next marker was 2 kilometers away, instructing us to follow the sand dunes. Although the terrain was sandy and the sun unforgiving, the mesmerizing views kept our spirits high.
Praia do Malhão: A Lunch Break
Our hike led us to Praia do Malhão, a vast and wave-laden beach. Seeking shade, we settled near a rock to enjoy a picnic lunch. Veggie wraps were on the menu, and we replenished our energy with refreshing sips of water. Afterward, we indulged in some sunbathing while taking in the surroundings.
During our beach respite, a vendor appeared, likely selling ice cream. The family of four we had intermittently crossed paths with earlier passed by again, but this time, we lingered longer at the beach and lost sight of them.
Return to the Trail
After a leisurely two-hour beach break, we packed up our beach gear and returned to the trail. As we continued, a wooden planked pathway provided an idyllic route along the cliff’s edge. From this vantage point, we witnessed people enjoying beach days on the shores below, despite the strong winds that day.
Unforgettable Cliff Views
Following the wooden path, we encountered signs warning about unstable cliffs and the importance of respecting nature. True to their word, the trail continued to bless us with incredible cliff views and access to secluded beaches that seemed almost impossible to reach. At times, we encountered local fishermen, each with their own unique viewpoint.
As we drew closer to Vila Nova de Milfontes, we couldn’t help but recognize distinctive landmarks, including the rocks we had explored during our brief city tour the previous day. It was a bittersweet reminder of our journey’s end for the day.
With a mix of sunburn and fatigue, we arrived in Vila Nova de Milfontes, eager to rest and wash off the sand and sweat. Our hotel offered a fantastic view of the River Mira merging with the ocean, setting the scene for a delightful dinner at the hotel’s restaurant where we were staying. Over wine and a buffet feast, we marveled at the beautiful sunset, a fitting end to our exhilarating first day on the Fisherman’s Trail.We were exhausted but content, and fell into a deep slumber that night, eagerly anticipating the adventures that awaited us on the remaining days of our hike along the breathtaking Fisherman’s Trail.
Start
Porto Covo
End
Vila Nova de Milfontes
Duration
6.5 hours
Length
21 km
Difficulty
Intermediate
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