A Challenging Hike to Lumio and the Abandonden City of Occi
On our seventh day on Corsica, we went on a challenging hike from L’Île-Rousse to Lumio and Capo d’Occi. It was an adventure, filled with breathtaking views, visiting the charming village of Lumio and the abandoned old village of Occi, and ending on a secluded and picturesque Plage de Ghjorghju, diving into the turquoise waters . We set out early in the morning, fueled by excitement, and embarked on a hike that would leave us in awe of the beauty and heritage of Corsica.
The Train Ride and the Northern Coastline
After a short and crowded 20-minute train ride from L’Île-Rousse to Plage de Ghjorghju, we couldn’t help but admire the rocky, sandy and picturesque beaches, the cliffs and magnificent mountains stretched alongside the railway. The Mediterranean Sea sparkled in the morning sun, setting the stage for the hiking day that awaited us.
Ascending Towards Lumio
Leaving the train tracks behind near Plage de Ghjorghju, we followed a path that led us towards the mountains and upward to Lumio. Along the way, the trail treated us with stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea and glimpses of Lumio in the distance. Our path was a mix of shaded and sunlit areas, and we encountered several small lizards scurrying away at the sound of our approaching footsteps. As we neared Lumio, we had even an unexpected encounter with a much larger lizard, or what I to this day believe it to be, as I saw only a huge tail swiftly disappearing into the bushes.
The picturesque church of Lumio
The Charming Old Village of Lumio
As we were approaching Lumio, we walked on a steep asphalt road initially but the sight of the local villas and summer houses along the way made it all worthwhile. Crossing a busy road proved to be a small hurdle, but once we entered the village, Lumio’s charm captured our hearts. Its beautiful streets and houses, decorated with flowers, highlighted by a picturesque church with a bell in the heart of the city, offered us the perfect spot to pause, take pictures, and relax.
Historical Significance and Amazing Architecture in Lumio
As we learn upon arriving in Lumio, the village has a rich history dating back to 16th century and is known for its local artisians specializing in pottery, woodwork and embroidery. There are many workshops and galleries to see firsthand the creativity of the locals. What truly captivated us, was that the village of Lumio has a very charming and well-preserved architecture, with traditional stone houses and narrow streets, which create a beautiful setup for taking beautiful pictures.
You can find the map here!
The abandoned City of OCCI
Towards Capo d’Occi
After exploring Lumio, we followed the signs pointing towards Occi. Passing through narrow spaces between buildings, we found ourselves at a small square outlined by houses. There we were greeted by a cat, taking a nap under a shadow and resting on the stairs of a house. We continued onto a dusty road that led us away from Lumio. The initial part of this road was relatively easy, with shaded areas and splendid views of Lumio behind us. However, the road gradually became steeper, with limited shade and thorny bushes. Despite the challenges, the anticipation and excitement of reaching the top and witnessing the panoramic view motivated us to keep going.
The Rewarding View and Occi
Upon reaching the mountain top, fatigue caught up with us, but it couldn’t overshadow the magnificent view that unfolded before us. From this mountain top point, we marveled at the abandoned city of Occi and spotted falcons and various other birds in the sky. Returning to the road without shade and braving the thorns once more, we descended towards the abandoned city. On the way towards the city, we discovered a massive rock covered in trees, providing an ideal resting spot for our well-deserved lunch. We sat in awe, admiring the turquoise waters and the striking mountainous landscape, L’Île-Rousse and its port far in the distance.
The Abandoned City and Heritage
After a satisfying lunch, we entered into a little adventure as the path on which we hiked abruptly ended. Determined not to turn back, we continued, maneuvering through thorns and bushes and even crossing a metal fence. Eventually, we found ourselves on a somewhat normal dusty pathway that led us to the hill overlooking Occi. The abandoned city, though small, had a church in the middle and a vast empty square, which seemed perfect for marketplaces or village gatherings in old times.
Why Abandoning This Paradise?
You may wonder why this city was abandoned though it was once a thriving community and with a strategic location. The short answer is due to scarcity of water in the area. The village of Occi was founded by refugees in the Middle Ages, and had a population of about 150 residents by 16th century. The village gradually reduced its population and in the 1920s, a man called Felix Giudiceli, became the last remaining inhabitant of this idyllic village.
The church in the abandonded city of Occi
Setting the direction to the beach
Heading Down and Back to Plage de Ghjorghju
Leaving Occi behind, we descended towards the beautiful northern beaches. The path downwards offered views of Calvi in the distance and Pointe de Revallata with its iconic lighthouse. Finally, we arrived at Plage de Ghjorghju, the same place where we had started our hike. The remote beach, surrounded by rocks and with coarse sand, provided the perfect spot for relax and a refreshing dip in the Mediterranean waters. Covered in dust and sweat, with scratched limbs and tired faces, we jumped directly in the water. The beach was untouched by buildings, hotels, or campsites, providing tranquillity with only the sound of crashing waves, seagulls, and laughter of the kids and their families. The waters were clear and there were a few rocks, which the kids even used as diving platforms.
Beach Bliss and Ending the Day
As the beach was surrounded by rocks, the sea breeze was absent, creating even more warm air around us. To cool down, we frequently dived in the water. We brought our swimming gear, the goggles and water protecting phone case, and captured the stunning underwater world with our camera. We spent 2-3 hours on the beach, savoring the serenity before the next train arrived taking us back to L’Île-Rousse. The train ride back offered us another opportunity to admire the captivating views from the window. We returned to L’Île-Rousse tired yet happy and excited, where we enjoyed local fruits and wine on our Airbnb balcony.
Our hiking adventure from L’Île-Rousse to Lumio and Capo d’Occi was a blend of natural beauty, cultural exploration, and unforgettable moments. The challenging ascent, and the reward of breathtaking views made this hike truly worthwhile. As we retired for the night, our hearts were filled with a sense of fulfillment and anticipation for the adventures that awaited us on the island of Corsica.
Start
Plage de Ghjorghju
End
Plage de Ghjorghju
Duration
5 hours
Length
13.5 km
Difficulty
Challenging
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