Day 9: Hiking the Fisherman’s Trail
From Vila do Bispo to Sagres
Embarking on the ninth and final day of our epic trek along Portugal’s Fisherman’s Trail, we found ourselves amidst the coastal charm of Sagres. The morning mist, cloud-kissed landscapes, and a temperature of 19°C set the stage for what promised to be an exhilarating grand finale to our nine-day adventure. Having made friends, explored shifting landscapes and marveled at the changing hues of the coastal path, we eagerly embraced the challenges that awaited us on the final stretch. Join us as we recount the details of this eventful day, hiking on rocky terrain and sandy beaches to celebrating our triumphant arrival in Sagres.
A Cozy Morning in Vila do Bispo
Our final day on the Fisherman’s Trail commenced with the enchanting ambiance of Vila do Bispo. Pulling back the curtains, we were greeted by the mystique of fog and clouds, surrounding the beautiful church in front of our hotel. With the temperature at a comfortable 19°C, our anticipation soared, albeit with a secret wish for the fog to disperse. We quickly prepared our backpacks for the day, and then made our way to breakfast. To our surprise, the a couple we met occasionally on the trail was there, accompanied by other familiar faces. The bustling breakfast buffet, filled with fruits, bread, and steaming coffee, set the stage for our day’s adventures. Bidding adieu to fellow hikers, we left the village behind, passing by well-maintained cozy local houses.
The first stretch of the hike was quite monotonous
On the Trail Again
Our hike began on a dusty, treeless road, winding towards the ocean. Approximately 6 or 7 kilometers of walking on this wide path, also suitable for cars, which passed by us, brought us closer to the mesmerizing coastline. Though, we had to walk significant amount of distance through a rather monotonous landscape before catching the first glimpses of the vast ocean.
Eventually, the coastal panorama gradually revealed itself, with a stunning small cliff and bay capturing our attention. Despite lingering fog, the ocean became noticable, providing a refreshing contrast to the mundane wide path accessible even to cars. The path’s shifting hues, transitioning from red to golden and back, held little significance as our focus remained steadfastly fixed on the captivating ocean views. A slight deviation from the coastline led us to the pinnacle of a hill, guiding us downward to Praia do Telheiro, a beach flanked by enchanting red rocks. Walking on a very narrow path, we descended through bushes and rocks, encountering a wooden staircase that facilitated our passage. The picturesque beach, embraced by captivating rock formations, offered a moment of tranquility before our journey led us uphill on the opposite side of the coastline.
Are we there yet?
Battling Flies and Rocky Terrain
As we continued on the trail along a familiar terrain of coarse sand, the coastal pathway gradually transformed, weaving through rocks and bushes. The once frequent trail markings became scarce, but there were crafted stone piles, substituting the usual green and blue markings of the Fisherman’s trail. In the distance, a prominent cliff extended into the ocean, accompanied by the presence of a striking red lighthouse, our first target of the day. Navigating the rocky path required careful steps, which was turned into even a bigger challenge as we were accompanied the unwelcome numerous flies, persistently biting and covering our backpacks and shirts.
Next destination: Farol do Cabo de São Vicente
Despite the distraction, we pressed on, approaching the lighthouse to witness fishermen, colossal rocks in the water, and seagulls circling above. The rocky terrain eased into sandy pathways as we neared the lighthouse, prompting a decision to have lunch there as our stomachs started rumbling at this point of the day. However, the crowds of people, tourists, and cars led us to reconsider, opting instead for a brief pause, a few photos, and resuming of our trail. Passing by small trucks and street shops, we noted that the lighthouse is not open for tourists as it is serving as a defense ministry. We then redirected to the asphalt road, which led us to a fortress, likely housing a church, and distinguished by its towering walls and captivating viewpoint on the edge of the cliff. As we progressed, a beach emerged on the horizon, calling us for a well-deserved lunch break.
The entrance to Sagres
From Sagres Fortress to Beliche Beach Bliss
Leaving the fortress behind, the trail led us along a path decorated with rocks, red sand and bushes, dangerously close to the cliff’s edge, urging caution in our every step. The city of Sagres gradually started being more and more visible in the distance, approximately 5 kilometers away, enticing with the promise of the evening’s highlight – the Cape of Sagres and its breathtaking sunset views. Transitioning from sandy roads to asphalt,we approached the bustling beach of Beliche. The beach was teeming with surfers enjoying the waves, but beachgoers were also to see. Descending through cement stairs down to the beach, we reached finally the second target destination of our day. Opting to enjoy the surroundings, we bargained for an umbrella and lounges on the beach, relishing a tranquil hour with a light lunch of crackers, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, hummus, and guacamole. Satisfied and recharged, we packed our backpacks, bidding farewell to the beach as we resumed our journey along the trail.
Triumph in Sagres
As the trail transitioned from asphalt to the captivating coastal landscape, it curved near the cliffs, offering a mesmerizing view of the sprawling city of Sagres and Cape of Sagres ahead. The red sand and rock road hugged the cliffs, revealing intricate shapes and formations in the rocks, creating a sense of danger with their vertical drops and crashing waves. The sun illuminated the beach, alternating between clouds, but as we returned to the trail, clouds reappeared. With each step, we counted down the final kilometers to Sagres, humming in jubilation for overcoming challenges and persevering through the entire trail. Our spirits soared as we entered the city, walking along the asphalt road. The welcoming city sign marked our triumphant arrival in Sagres.
Triumphs, New friendships and rest
Souvenirs, Triumphs, and Well-Earned Rest
At the entrance of Sagres we noticed a souvenir shop decorated with colorful plates caught. Inside, we bought a beautiful plate with a drawing of Zambujeira do Mar, a place deeply meaningful to us due to our engagement. Continuing along the road, we reached the beach of Tonel, where a statue of Infante D. Henrique stood. Celebratory pictures, high-fives, and kisses marked the culmination of our journey. Settling into our hotel near the square, a quick shower relieved us of the day’s dirt and sweat, preparing us for a celebratory dinner at the nearby Fermento restaurant, offering wine and delectable vegan options. Overjoyed by our triumph over the Fisherman’s Trail, covering nearly 200 kilometers in 9 days, we looked forward to future adventures, acknowledging the need for well-deserved rest. Despite blisters, sandy eyes, and sunburn, our hearts were full with the exploration of the Portuguese coast.
A Night of Celebration and New Friends in Sagres
After a refreshing break at the hotel, we eagerly anticipated the sunset on what we thought was Praia do Tonel, only to realize we were at the wrong beach. Undeterred, we redirected toward a west-oriented beach, encountering clouds that prevented us from enjoying the sunset. Reflecting on our engagement on Zambujeira do Mar’s beach, we headed to the Fermento restaurant for a delightful evening. The ambiance was complemented by a bottle of golden-hued Praia Maria wine from the Algarve region, with citrus notes. We enjoyed a plate of bread, olives, and butter, accompanied by olive oil for dipping. Indulging in flavorful dishes like chickpea soup, tomato-cucumber salad, pasta with aubergine, and fried green beans, we relished the end of our trail. On our way to the hotel, we unexpectedly encountered the old Dutch couple on the balcony, leading to a delightful evening of shared stories and local Portuguese alcohol shots. Their retirement tales, travel recommendations for Italy’s Path of the Gods, and insights into staying happy and healthy through activity and diverse diets left us with lasting memories. With new friendships forged, we retired for the night, content and grateful for the day’s experiences.
As the sun set over Sagres and in the company of fellow hikers, we concluded our ninth day on the Fisherman’s Trail, relishing the challenges and scenic wonders that marked our coastal adventure. From misty trails and rocky cliffs to sandy beaches and vibrant sunsets, the day encapsulated the diverse beauty of Portugal’s coastline. The celebration in Sagres, complete with a delicious dinner, new friendships, and reflections on the trail, underscored the triumph of conquering nearly 200 kilometers in nine days. This Fisherman’s Trail experience, with its stunning landscapes and shared moments, will forever remain etched in our hearts.
Start
Vila do Bispo
End
Sagres
Duration
6 hours
Length
22 km
Difficulty
Intermediate
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