Day 8: Hiking the Fisherman’s Trail
From Carrapateira to Vila do Bispo
Embarking on the eighth day of the Fisherman’s Trail, our anticipation mingled with the early morning light as we awoke to promises of the “best breakfast” of our multiday trip. However, the day unfolded with surprises of its own, from a morning feast to encounters with fellow hikers. Undeterred, we set out on the hike, retracing our steps to the village center and diving into a dusty road that would lead us through a landscape of hills and valleys, challenging climbs and breathtaking descents. Each turn brought us closer to the heart of Portugal’s coastal beauty, revealing historic settlements, expansive beaches, and panoramic views that left us breathless. Join us as we recount the details of our eighth day on the Fisherman’s Trail—a day filled with unexpected twists and turns, both on the trail and within ourselves.
A Challenging Start
The morning began with an early wake-up, and anticipation for the “best breakfast” of our multiday hiking heightened our expectations. However, the promise fell flat when the meal arrived at a late 9 am. The breakfast, praised as exceptional, proved to be overrated, with slow service and a buffet table lacking variety. Fruits like apples, kiwis, and pears failed to impress, and even the coffee was a simple filter brew. Though, this didn’t dampen our excitment and on the contrary, our spirits lifted as we geared up for the day’s hike.
Following a dusty road and leaving behind Carrapateira
The Trail Begins
Retracing our steps to the village center, we then found the way out of it and embarked on a dusty road that undulated with hills. The terrain challenged us with ups and downs, eventually leading to a slight climb. Our perseverance paid off when we were rewarded with a panoramic view of the ocean that stretched endlessly before us.
A Historical Detour
While walking along an asphalt road following the coastline, curiosity led us to a fascinating detour—the first Islamic settlement in Portugal. During this exploration, we encountered familiar faces from the hotel, now heading in the opposite direction from us due to our detour. A wooden planked pathway led us to the cliff’s edge, revealing remnants of the area’s first settlers—rocks shaped like squares and rectangles, reminiscent of ancient houses. Continuing along the pathway, we were treated to a panoramic view of beaches and cliffs from the day before, flanked by two beautiful beaches. One beach, smaller with a boat close to the shores, hinted at a perfect spot for fishing, while the other,named Praia do Amado, wider and bustling with surfers on the sand and in the water, beckoned us closer. Returning to the trail markings, we eagerly made our way to the expansive beach, walking along the edge to observe the surfers below and passing by vibrant surf schools and cafes, eventually stepping onto the sandy shore to witness the powerful waves crashing against the coastline.
The oasis Murração Beach
Climbing Heights, Surfing Waves
Climbing further along the hilly terrain, we faced initial challenges but were soon captivated by the breathtaking view from the hilltop, an expansive coastline, hills, and mountains in both lush greenery and more arid landscapes. The absence of shade was unimportant at this point, as the few clouds in the sky provided moments of respite from the sun, allowing us to appreciate the picturesque pathways on the hills and ponder which one would lead us forward. Continuing along the hill’s summit, we enjoyed a close-up view of the ocean, waves, and coastline, a panoramic view that stretched beyond the apparent end of the beach.
Walk along Murração Beach
The Oasis Praia da Murração: Lunch Break
After descending a steep hill, we were greeted by the breathtaking Praia da Murração—a wide beach with a warning sign cautioning against crossing if the water neared the rocks. Fortunately, at that moment, the water was at a safe distance, allowing us to proceed. Captivated by the beauty of the beach, we decided to pause for lunch at the 6th kilometer mark of our hike. Seeking shade, we settled in a rocky spot, occasionally shifting to follow the shadows. During our break, we explored the water’s edge, discovering captivating rock formations, small caves sculpted by the ocean’s force, and even two camouflaged crabs seamlessly blending with the rocks. As we enjoyed our lunch with a backdrop of colossal waves, the beach remained tranquil with only a few families and a dog sharing the space. Despite the temptation to linger, the trail called out to us, and we packed our belongings to walk on a wide pathway with a significant incline.
Challenges conquered, views embraced
Summit Views and Coastal Roads: The Panoramic Trek to Vila do Bispo
Ascending this wide, steep pathway left us breathless, but the panoramic reward awaited—a captivating view of the ocean, beach, coastline, and mountain tops. Continuing southeast, the flat path led us past the cliff edge with mesmerizing ups and downs, revealing stunning cliffs,rock formations and bays. Despite the challenges, the captivating views absorbed our attention. Navigating through hilly sections, we spotted seemingly inaccessible beaches and eventually reached the secluded Praia da Pena Furada with golden sand and beautiful rock formations. The path then zigzagged upwards, leading to yet another challenging climb to the mountain’s summit, offering breathtaking views of multiple beaches. The final flat stretch presented for us mountain tops, roads, and distant wind turbines against a cloudy sky, providing relief from the scorching sun. Walking southeast, the trail led us away from the ocean, passing sparse trees and surrounded by bushes. Despite occasional appearances of native Portuguese oak and pine trees, we welcomed the flat terrain without impending climbs. The road, often decorated with small white rocks, briefly transitioned to a red rocks pathway. As we came closer and closer to our destination, the dusty pathway transformed into an more urban style road with fast-driving cars along our side but on a different road.
Challenges Conquered, Views Embraced: A Day of Climbs and Discoveries in Vila do Bispo
Under the relentless sun catching up with us at the final stretch and with minimal shade, the road proved challenging as we resisted the urge to stop due to the scorching heat. Despite fleeting moments of cloud cover, the persistent sun left us yearning for respite. As we walked alongside the asphalt road, the constant hum of passing cars accompanied us until we reached Vila do Bispo, a village distinguished by its tall tower. Upon entering the village, we discovered our hotel’s proximity to a charming church, offering a compensatory view despite the room lacking a balcony. The tolling of the bell resonated as we refreshed ourselves with showers, washing away the day’s grime. A quick visit to the supermarket and a stop at a takeaway place for dinner completed the day, capping off an experience marked by challenging climbs and awe-inspiring views of mountain tops, cliffs, and beaches. While this leg might be the most challenging yet, confirmation awaits as we approach the conclusion of the trail on the following day.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, we reflected on a day of extraordinary contrasts. From the invigorating climbs that tested our will to the breathtaking views that rewarded our efforts. The day, marked by encounters with captivating landscapes and a relentless sun, found its peaceful conclusion in the charming village of Vila do Bispo. As we embraced the comforts of our hotel with the distant echoes of church bells, the anticipation of the trail’s final chapter lingered—an anticipation fueled by the challenges conquered, the natural landscapes discovered, and the promise of a triumphant culmination on the day after.
Start
Carrapateira
End
Vila do Bispo
Duration
5 hours
Length
17 km
Difficulty
Intermediate
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