Day 7: Hiking the Fisherman’s Trail
From Arrifana to Carrapateira
Hiking along the Fisherman’s Trail has been an incredible journey filled with breathtaking landscapes, unexpected encounters, and thought-provoking moments. Day Seven was no exception. As we set out from our comfortable hotel room in the cozy village of Vale da Telha near Arrifana, we embarked on a day filled with exciting twists and turns, stunning coastal views, and a harsh reminder of the nature’s fury and importance of preserving and caring for it.
Breakfast and Morning Stroll
The day commenced with a leisurely delicious breakfast at our cozy hotel, fueled by the anticipation of the day ahead. We had a full plate of fruits, pastries and bread, juice and strong coffee. The corridor leading us from our room to the eating area was adorned with captivating Arabic paintings and vibrant decorations, encapsulating a rich history. We couldn’t help but admire the artistic depiction of landscapes and houses in the region of Arrifana.
Praia da Arrifana
On the Trail Again: Retracing Our Steps
Having replenished ourselves after a big breakfast and at least two coffee cup refills, we gathered our backpacks and retraced our steps from Vale da Telha village toward Arrifana. The familiarity of the sandy dunes and the shade of pine trees accompanied us initially, but we were soon to venture into uncharted territory.
From Dusty Roads to Steep Climbs: The Road to Arrifana beach and beyond
The initial leg of our journey was marked by dusty and wide paths, eventually transforming into asphalt. Climbing up towards the village of Arrifana, we zigzagged through an asphalt road, passing by two armed policemen guarding a construction site, leaving us with curious thoughts of why… Arriving at Arrifana’s vast beach, where surfers rode the waves against the backdrop of a panoramic horizon, we felt energized by the lively atmosphere and we eagerly continued the adventyre through the next sections of the trail. Just beyond Arrifana, we encountered a group of fellow hikers before veering off the asphalt onto a slightly steep hill with a dusty road. Unaware at that momen, this dusty path would wind up becoming our companion for a considerable long stretch of our day’s adventure.
Mountain tops and the call of the ocean
Confronting Challenges and Reveling in Scenic Wonders
As our journey unfolded, we gradually approached the coastline, where a breathtaking panorama from atop a hill overlooking a stony beach below appeared before our eyes. Alongside the rugged beauty of the coastal cliffs, a captivating vertical rock formation stood prominently, adding a touch of nature’s artistry to the landscape. Descending towards the rocky beach, we soon realized that our path wasn’t without its challenges. A steep ascent awaited us, becoming one of the day’s highlights. Yet, with determination, we conquered the rugged hill, rewarded by a captivating view of the endless ocean stretching before us. However, soon after the landscapes transitioned from the expansive ocean views to the mountain peaks that dominated the horizon. The terrain was outlined by dry bushes and occasional pine trees and the dusty road widened. The trail transformed into a more picturesque pathway with a red hue, an enchanting stretch where Portuguese native oak and eucalyptus trees towered overhead. Pine trees, mixed within the oaks and eucaptus trees, created a scene straight out of a heaven. Yet, amid this terrestrial beauty, our hearts yearned for the ocean and the coastline, the rhythmic sounds of crashing waves calling out to us. At that time, the sky was filled with clouds, and strong winds swept through, providing a fitting setting for the climbing challenges that laid ahead of us.
After Praia da Pedra Agulha, there was a steep climb
Rain and Sunshine
As we continued on the trail, we found ourselves sharing the path once again with a resilient elderly couple, kindred spirits who had become familiar faces on this trail. Continuing along the red-colored path, the trail meandered through a captivating landscapes. However, the wind speed increased suddently and a looming dark cloud gathered above us. The air thickened, and raindrops started to fall. We quickly found refuge beneath the protective branches of a nearby tree. Patiently awaiting the passing shower, we embraced the moment and took a break. Within minutes, the relentless dark clouds were swept away by the wind, and sunlight streamed through the raindrops. Rested and energized, we resumed our hike along the dusty road.
As we followed on the red-colored pathway, ascending and descending, we passed by scattered houses, some abandoned and others well cared for. Along the way, we encountered a cow farm, yet another moment we embraced for a break. However, the road and landscape apperead quite monotonous at the time, and our hearts longed for the ocean and change of landscapes.
A Whisper of the Ocean
Our journey continued uphill, winding through a forest with a diverse mix of pine trees, native Portuguese oak, and eucalyptus trees. As the road ascended, a long-awaited breathtaking sight unfolded — the vast ocean. The strong wind, evident in the synchronized rotation of numerous wind turbines in the distances, hinted at the force of nature. The rugged rocky pathway transformed into familiar sandy terrain, offering respite from the monotony of wide dusty roads. The sandy road continued meandering past cliffs, zigzagging toward the distant Praia de Bordeira, where we had chosen to pause for lunch.
The aftermath
Burnt Landscapes
At this point we managed to cover 18 km of the daily hike, but the winds intensified, prompting us to keep tight our hats. As we were focusing on not loosing hats and mindering through the sand dunes, the landscape transformed dramatically, revealing the aftermath of a recent fire that had ravaged the region for weeks. Burnt hills and naked branches stood in stark contrast to the golden sands and the blue ocean. Devastated and silent through this section, but yet determined, we pressed on through the scorched terrain. The markings were lost to the fire, but Bordeira beach neared, offering solace amidst the destruction. The winds persisted as we discovered beautiful red rocks, attempting to find shelter but ultimately settling down between the sand dunes for a lunch of bread, cucumber, and tomatoes, accompanied by the ocean’s soothing melody.
Seaside Serenity
Packing our backpacks, we forged ahead on our trail, seamlessly blending with the vastness of the beach. With shoes filled with sand and fatigue in our legs, we approached the water’s edge, where we stopped to admire groups of surfers, both novices and experts, rode the waves with extreme balancing skills. Venturing toward the beach’s end, a grand cliff was standing, with waves crashing against it. Following the trail markings, our gaze shifted toward the horizon, where we spotted the distant village of Carrapateira, the ultimate destination of the day.
Carrapateira’s Allure
Navigating a sandy pathway mixed with rocks, we treaded cautiously to avoid slipping on the sand-covered stones. On the side there was a narrow river meandering near the cliff’s edge, though lacking the grandeur of Seixe river near Odeceixe or Aljezur river near Aljezur, appearing even dry against the coastal bakchround.
Turning towards the village of Carrapateira, we passed through a vast beach. Our journey continued along an asphalt road, leading us to the heart of the village. Carrapateira’s center boasted surfing schools, a museum, and a charming array of restaurants and cafes. Before settling down at the hotel, we first ventured to the local supermarket, where unexpectedly, we encountered the familiar faces of the elderly Dutch couple from the Odeceixe hotel, sparking a connection on our coastal pilgrimage.We exhcanged stories of the day and talked about beers, but we were tired and dreamed of a nice shower to wash away the sand and dirt from our bodies.
Final Stretch: Reaching Our Secluded Haven
Resupplying at the local supermarket, we embarked on the final stretch towards our secluded hotel. The receptionist’s initial confusion if we have at all booked a hotel room, added a touch of suspense, but as we settled into our rustic room, the panoramic view from the balcony, complete with grazing cows in the adjacent field, exceeded our expectations.
Day Seven of our Fisherman’s Trail trail was filled with surprises, from the dramatic changes in landscapes to the heartwarming encounters with fellow hikers. It also served as a poignant reminder of the critical need to protect and respect our natural world in the face of climate challenges. With 24 kilometers covered, we ended the day with a lovely dinner, savoring both the delicious meal and the unforgettable view from our balcony, grateful for the experiences this trail had presented to us.
Start
Arrifana
End
Carrapateira
Duration
7 hours
Length
25 km
Difficulty
Intermediate
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