Day 5: Hiking the Fisherman's Trail

From ODeceixe to Aljezur

On the 5th day of our epic journey along the Fisherman’s Trail, we awoke to the sound of rain, but this day promised to be as thrilling as the previous ones, if not more. Our hotel, nestled on a hill with a unique concept, set the stage for another unforgettable day. Starting with a delightful breakfast in our hillside hotel, we embarked on a journey through picturesque landscapes and historical sites. From the beautiful sight of Seixe River merging with the Atlantic to the fog-enshrouded cliffs and quaint villages, each moment was a discovery. Encounters with fishermen braving the cliffs, and the rustic beauty of rural Portugal was splendid. That day we covered 24 kilometers to Aljezur and the day culminated in a celebratory evening that marked our engagement. Join us as we delve into the highlights of this day.

Breakfast with a View

Our day commenced with a breakfast at our cozy hotel, where we enjoyed a great service and a view towards the windmill, the symbol of the Odeceixe town. Freshly baked bread and flaky croissants were complemented by creamy homemade yogurt served in cute little jars. The zesty burst of freshly squeezed orange juice and the comforting warmth of coffee, while a platter laden with succulent fruits, cheeses, and cakes added to the morning delight. The tone for a day of exploration and wonder was set just right.

From Nods to Friends: The Couple Who Became Trail Companions

During our breakfast at the hotel, we couldn’t help but notice a cheerful couple in their 50s or 60s at the adjacent table. Their infectious joy and friendly demeanor were impossible to ignore. While our initial interactions were limited to smiles and nods, this serendipitous meeting would go on to define our Fisherman’s Trail adventure. As we continued on the next trekking stages in the following days, our paths continued to cross, and our exchanges evolved into heartfelt conversations. We discovered kindred spirits who shared our love for adventure. This couple became our steadfast companions, offering support during challenging moments and sharing in the joys of exploration.

View from the hilltop of Odeceixe- the devastation left after the fire in the region

Check out the map here!

The Wonders of Portugal

Leaving our suitcases behind in our hotel room, where they would be transported to our next destination, Aljezur, we embarked on the day’s adventure. Our initial stop led us to a historic mill, atop the hill. Descending through a labyrinth of local houses, we couldn’t ignore the stark contrast of a recent forest fire’s scars on the distant hills. Our hearts shrank from the sight.
Our journey continued along an asphalt road, weaving its way out of the city and into a landfield. Cows grazed peacefully in the fields, and birds, that we never saw before, resembling storks but with their own unique charm, soared through the skies. As we then ascended towards the cliffs overlooking the beach of Odeceixe, the weather gifted us with ideal hiking conditions, the coolness of the clouds offering respite from the sun’s intensity. This upward climb unveiled a familiar yet spectacular view, where the river Seixe gracefully merged with the Atlantic ocean. This particular spot is in fact one of Portugal’s seven wonders, where the estuary of freshwater from the river is mixing with saltwater from the ocean. We admired the view of the pristine beach, a tranquil place far from the bustling tourist crowds.

On the Cliff’s Edge

Departing from the beach, we found ourselves perched atop dramatic cliffs, the path transitioning from smooth asphalt to rugged, dusty and sandy trails. Here, we saw local fishermen, standing with bravery on rocky outcrops, casting their fishing rods into the deep blue. Our trail continued to reveal picturesque coastal views in front of us, where centuries of relentless waves had sculpted imperfect rocky forms. As we walked on the sandy pathways, we saw a bench, made from wooden pellets. It beckoned us to pause and savor the moment. Nestled among vibrant green bushes, this viewpoint offered a perfect respite, where we savored the panoramic views while the rhythmic crashing of waves serenaded us. Although we had journeyed only 5 kilometers out of the day’s 24-kilometer adventure, we enjoyed the pausing moment for a while.

A lovely place for rest along the coastline

Embracing the fog and the crashing waves

Through Diverse Landscapes

At this stage of the hike, the landscape shifted dramatically. After the short break at the bench, we marveled at more majestic cliffs and picturesque landscapes along our path. As we approached a cliff, it seemed we faced an obstacle, realizing we needed to descend a pathway and ascend a rocky, steep trail to reach the other side. Yet, the trail’s markings defied expectations, guiding us instead through a flat stretch, meandering by an agricultural farm, and transitioning between asphalt and dusty road. Our path led us past small farmhouses, but we were also lucky to spot the first stork in the area. Turning back towards the ocean, the trail unfolded amidst hills adorned with fig trees, grapevines, and eucalyptus trees. While enjoying the views, we also saw a fleeting wild rabbit jumping in the bushes. Suddenly, fog rolled in, giving everything a dreamy vibe and making it a bit tricky to see. We strolled through the sand dunes, getting all wrapped up in the cool feel of the fog—even though things weren’t crystal clear, the ocean’s rhythmic sounds echoed. Eventually, navigating through ups and downs in a hilly section, we found ourselves on the edge of cliffs. We realized that we marked the halfway point of the dailt trail, where the path would turn inland, inviting us to delve deeper into the heart of Portugal.

Lunch with a View
As midday approached, we reached a crossroads where we had initially planned to visit Praia de Esteveira for lunch. However, due to the dense fog-shrouded descent to get to the down to the beach, we gave us a lunch break instead on top of the cliff. We found a spot on a wooden pathway that offered an equally captivating view of the coastline despite the fog. Settling in for a leisurely picnic lunch, we indulged in bread, cucumbers, and grapes, all while feasting our eyes on the dramatic cliffs and the ever-changing hues of the ocean in the distance.

Towards Rogil Village

With renewed energy, we resumed our hike, our steps taking us towards the charming village of Rogil. The trail led us through fragrant pine tree forests, where the scent of pine needles filled the air. Along the way, we passed quaint houses, some abandoned and others bearing the signs of inhabitants inside. The houses ranged from modest ones that mirrored a simpler way of life to those that boasted small farms, with clucking chickens and cultivated gardens.

As we traversed the sand pathway, shaded by pine trees, the terrain transitioned into a dusty road, devoid of sand. Along this route, we encountered small houses, a mix of abandoned and inhabited, offering glimpses into the diverse living conditions. Some residences displayed signs of modest means, while others housed quaint chicken farms. The path then meandered through pine tree forests, eventually leading us onto a broad road bordered by fields, where locals tended to crops like watermelons and corn, along with unfamiliar plants.

Emerging from another stretch of pine tree cover, we found ourselves walking on an asphalt road, accompanied by sporadic passing cars. The road lacked designated sections for hikers but seamlessly guided us toward a bustling boulevard, marking our arrival in the lively village of Rogil. This vibrant village boasted well-maintained houses, decorated with variously colored outlines around doors and windows, echoing the typical Portugese architectural charm. Exiting the village, we followed a dusty road, surrounded by dry fields and a few grazing cows. While the views were not as breathtaking as earlier in the day, the terrain remained flat, sparing us from strenuous climbs. The solitude of the trail was occasionally broken by the passing fellow hikers and cars. As we pressed on, the clouds began to disperse, allowing shafts of sunlight to filter through.

A sneak peek into Aljezur as we were approaching, perched on the hilltop

The Historic city of Aljezur

A Decision to be Made

As we approached the halfway mark of the day’s journey, we arrived at a crossroads. A detour beckoned us towards Praia da Amoreira, a pristine beach with the promise of stunning views. However, the additional 5 kilometers it would add to the entire hike, combined with our growing fatigue, the late hour, and lingering fog, led us to give up this opportunity. Instead, we pressed on along a dusty road, a less scenic but more pragmatic choice.

Our path led us past a lively camping site filled with people, cars, camping vehicles, where the joyous sounds of families enjoying the outdoors filled the air. Laughter and splashes could be heard from a sizable pool where children jumped in the waters. As we continued along, we transitioned from sandy trails to an asphalt road.

Aljezur Beckons

In the distance, the picturesque city of Aljezur came into view, divided by a meandering river. One side of the city featured a commanding hill crowned by an ancient castle, offering a glimpse into the city’s storied past. However, before reaching the city’s heart, we had to navigate a passage through a dog shelter. Although the barking dogs appeared aggresive and vigilant, we passed through without incident, but with racing heart rates from fear. Crossing a bridge over the a river, Ribeira do Ariero, we found ourselves on the outskirts of Aljezur.

Exploring Aljezur

Aljezur welcomed us with narrow, winding streets with cobblestones. We passed by a quaint museum, offering insight into the city’s heritage, and a charming, centuries-old church. The highlight was crossing a bridge that connected us to the other side of the city, which was more modern and offered a captivating view of the entire cityscape.

The Triumph of the Day

At last, we arrived at our hotel, greeted by the elderly couple we had encountered during our breakfast earlier that morning. Settling into our room, we indulged in much-needed showers and readied ourselves for a celebratory dinner. Our choice of dining venue, a cozy and renowned restaurant conveniently located in front of the hotel, allowed us to toast our engagement and reflect on the day’s remarkable achievement—a 24-kilometer hike that marked the halfway point on the Fisherman’s Trail, covering over half of its total distance.