Day 4: Hiking the Fisherman’s Trail
From Zambujeira do Mar to Odeceixe
As the dawn broke on the fourth day of our remarkable multi-day trekking along the Fisherman’s Trail, we found ourselves in a unique blend of excitement, exhaustion, and eagerness. Restless encounters with insects had made for a sleepless night, but the thrill of our recent engagement the day before continued to surge through our veins, filling us with boundless enthusiasm. From the challenges of the night to the breathtaking coastal vistas that awaited us, this day promised to be another unforgettable chapter in our hiking adventure.
A Sleepless Night
The day began on a somewhat groggy note due to a night marred by a cacophony of loud crickets. Despite our attempts to get rid of the offending insects, our efforts proved pointless, and ended up in a restful night’s sleep. At 3:30 AM, we went even outside in search of the noise-maker, armed with determination to eliminate it. After some time, the insect fell silent, and we returned to our room, hopeful for some rest. However, the respite was short-lived, as the cricket soon resumed its raucous screams, persisting until 5 AM. Despite the lack of sleep, the excitement of our recent engagement kept us energized and eager to embark on another day of adventure.
A Hearty Breakfast
Determined to make the most of our day, we gathered our belongings in the suitcases, left them at the reception to be taken by the lagguage company, and made our way to breakfast. Our morning meal consisted of an assortment of fresh fruits, pastries, and generously sized coffee cups. The combination of flavors and caffeine invigorated our spirits, preparing us for the day’s challenges and wonders that lay ahead.
The Scenic Village
Leaving our accommodation behind, we strolled through the charming village of Zambujeira do Mar, passing by a quaint chapel and a picturesque square. The air was filled with a sense of tranquility as we made our way down a beautifully crafted wooden staircase leading to the nearby local beach. This serene start to our day was a soothing contrast to the night’s disturbances.
Check out the map here!
Vast and Inviting: Praia do Carvalhal
The Unexpected Turn
Our journey began with a climb up a steep hill that offered captivating panoramic views of the sea, the city, and the beach below. However, as we reached the summit, an unexpected twist awaited us –the fatigue from our sleep-deprived night had led my hiking buddy, and now fiance, to accidentally forget the hotel room keys in his pocket. Without uttering a word, we made the decision to retrace our steps to return them. While this minor detour meant retracing the first kilometer of the hike, we were strangely content with the turn of events, as it allowed us to revisit the village, a place that held a special significance as the location of our recent engagement.
Coastal Wonders
Once back on track, we resumed our hike along a magnificent cliffside path, marveling at the breathtaking views of the coastline. We passed by serene sand dunes and reveled in the scenic splendor surrounding us. As we pressed forward, our first destination of the day, Praia dos Alterinhos, came into view. The pristine beach, flanked by grand rock formations, presented a picturesque sight. However, we soon discovered that the water was farther from the rocks than it had appeared from a distance.
Sandy Pathways
Continuing along the trail, we ventured onto sandy pathways flanked by a mix of sunlight and shade. The sandy stretches were lined with vibrant green bushes and trees, creating a harmonious natural blend. The trail eventually led us to a shaded section, though the trees were unusually dry, devoid of their characteristic green leaves. Despite this, the beauty of our surroundings remained undiminished.
Praia dos Bernosas
Our first beach stop was Praia dos Bernosas, a hidden gem known for its rugged cliffs and golden sands. One interesting fact about this beach is the ever-changing distance between the water and the rocks, depending on tides and currents. This dynamic feature added an element of surprise to our visit, emphasizing the constantly shifting nature of coastal landscapes. Despite its beauty, the beach was relatively quiet, making it a serene spot for exploration.
Praia dos Carvalhal: Vast and Inviting
Next on our journey was Praia dos Carvalhal, famous for its vast expanse. One notable aspect of this beach is the considerable distance one must walk from the starting point to reach the water’s edge. The wide stretch of golden sand and surrounding rock formations hinted at the ever-evolving coastline. Praia dos Carvalhal’s popularity was evident as beachgoers enjoyed the sun and surf, creating a lively atmosphere. Near the beach, we stumbled upon a cozy cafe where a sign stated, “It feels good to be lost in the right direction.” The sentiment resonated with our adventurous spirit, and we couldn’t help but smile as we continued our journey along the Fisherman’s Trail.
Feathered Friends: Exploring an Ostrich Farm
Our trekking path took an unexpected turn as we stumbled upon a vast farm that housed ostriches, llamas, and an array of other animals and birds. What captivated us most were the baby ostriches, a sight we had never before encountered. These delightful creatures followed us along a lengthy fence, their curiosity piqued by our presence. The section of the trail that passed near the farm was in the shadow of the fence, providing a welcome respite from the sun’s relentless rays.
A Quest to Stay Ahead
During our hike, we encountered a group of fellow hikers who were particularly cheerful and lively. Their boisterous singing and laughter echoed through the air, and we made it a point to stay ahead of them, humorously hoping to escape the cheerful din. We had a bad night sleep and tired eyes, we couldn’t bear more singing after the cricket torture.
Tunnel of Trees
Leaving behind the fellow hikers, continuing our journey, we passed under a tunnel formed by intertwining trees and bushes. Emerging from this shaded passage, we found ourselves once again in close proximity to the cliffs and sandy pathways. This stretch of the trail led us closer to a cliff’s edge, offering magnificent views of Praia dos Machados, a mesmerizing beach surrounded by dramatic rocks.
In pursuit of Praia da Amalia
The Pursuit of Praia da Amalia
Despite the allure of Praia dos Machados, we had our sights set on another beach – Praia da Amalia. This beach, not exactly in the middle of our hike but tantalizingly close to it, had captured our interest while we planned the route the day before, and appeared attractive thanks to its own waterfall cascading from the rocks. Eager to explore this hidden gem, we embarked on a slight detour from the Fisherman’s trail.
Our detour took us along sandy roads and steep rocky climbs, through stretches of sandy trails, and into pine tree-shaded sections. Along the way, we were treated to a delightful sighting of a lizard with an extraordinarily long tail, adding a touch of wildlife wonder to our journey. The trail also led us through a section where a tunnel of trees provided a brief but refreshing escape from the sun’s intensity.
We stumbled also upon a sprawling agricultural oasis adorned with numerous greenhouses. The sight of raspberries growing in abundance was a delightful surprise. Here, the trail markings diverged from the direction of the beach, but our longing to reach the shore of Praia da Amalia spurred us on. Upon reaching the beach, a welcoming stairwell on the left led us down to the shoreline, where a captivating waterfall gracefully cascaded from the rocks, adding an enchanting touch to the picturesque beach. It was the perfect spot for a lunch break, during which we improvised making a shade using our walking sticks and gear and towels. We dipped our toes into the refreshing water with a GoPro in hand, capturing memories of the beach’s lively atmosphere, where fellow hikers and even some dogs joined in the coastal enjoyment. After a satisfying meal of cucumbers, bread, tomatoes, and snacks, we reluctantly left this idyllic beach behind, following the trail markers for what we presumed to be the last leg of our journey.
Breathtaking Coastal Views
Returning to the coastal trail and cliffs, we followed a pathway that revealed more stunning coves and vistas. Our journey led us along sandy and rocky roads, with each turn offering unique perspectives of the rugged coastline. At this point, the relentless sun and the sandy terrain were beginning to take their toll on our energy levels. However, our determination remained unshaken as we eagerly anticipated the day’s most spectacular view.
As we followed the trail, it eventually led us on a dramatic descent towards a fishing port and a quaint, weathered village with charming but aging houses. At the heart of the village, a bustling restaurant drew a lively crowd with its seafood. After descending from an asphalt road, we found ourselves closer to the captivating port, where fishing boats bobbed in the water against a backdrop of imposing, sculpted rocks. Our ascent up a steep, rocky pathway left us breathless, but the panoramic view from the summit was immensely rewarding. Continuing along a mostly sandy path, we walked perilously close to the cliff’s edge, where occasionally the terrain turned both dangerous and exhilarating. The ever-changing shapes and hues of the coastal rocks provided a breathtaking backdrop.
A View to Remember
As we pressed on, our persistence was rewarded with an amazing sight. From the top of a cliff, we gazed down at the mesmerizing merging of the River Seixe with the Atlantic ocean. The golden-hued sandy beach,surrounded on three sides with water, speckled with sunbathers and surfers, stretched out before us. Beyond, a picturesque resort village of pristine white houses adorned the hillside, completing the postcard-perfect panorama.
Catch of the day
Endurance Through the Heat
As we continued our trek, we ventured closer to the cliff’s edge and now trekking along the river, and not the ocean. We found ourselves embraced by a serene pine tree forest, providing much-needed shade and a tranquil atmosphere. However, this idyllic woodland gradually gave way to a sandy pathway devoid of shadows. Our journey then took us through a zigzagging section of dusty road, followed by a descent that led us alongside the river. Along the riverbank, we spotted a family of two kids and their grandfather fishing and a boat with a colorful sail, as people paddled against the backdrop of lush green hills. Our path transitioned into a straightforward, flat dusty road that eventually transformed into asphalt, winding its way between towering hills and into the mountains. In the distance, the village of Odeceixe came into view, a welcome sight that filled us with joy as we approached our destination.
A Sad Reminder and Journey’s End
As we approached Odeceixe, the village that marked the end of our day’s journey, we encountered a stark reminder of the global climate crisis. Just weeks prior to our arrival, a forest fire had ravaged the area, leaving behind a haunting landscape of charred trees. With mixed emotions, we entered Odeceixe, tired but determined to reach our hotel. We crossed a long bridge leading to the village, where a sign resembling the iconic Hollywood sign welcomed us with the name “Odeceixe.” However, as we turned to the left of the sign, we were met once again with a heartbreaking view of the fire’s aftermath, a stark contrast to the picturesque beauty we had witnessed earlier. The sight of the scorched earth left our hearts heavy.
Before reaching our hotel, we decided to make a quick stop at a local supermarket to stock up on food supplies for dinner and the following day. With our bags filled, we made our way to our hotel, our exhaustion palpable. Finally, we arrived at our cozy hotel room, grateful for the opportunity to shower and rest. We bought beers to celebrate the day’s accomplishments. The beers came as a well-deserved treat as we unwound and contemplated our engagement dinner plans, which we had to postpone due to a lack of available tables at the hotel restaurant.
Day 4 of our Fisherman’s Trail adventure was marked by a series of unexpected twists and turns, challenges, and moments of awe. Our determination to explore every facet of this remarkable coastal trail was unwavering, and it continued to drive us forward. As we eagerly anticipated the next leg of our journey, we couldn’t help but reflect on the remarkable experiences and breathtaking landscapes we had encountered so far. Stay tuned for the next chapter of our hiking expedition!
Start
Zambujeira do Mar
End
Odeceixe
Duration
7 hours
Length
23 km
Difficulty
Intermediate
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